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Morey-St. Denis to Vougeot
Nearly 4km of vines separate Gevrey from Morey and I take my time to absorb
the beauty of the land, sample the fruit, and snap a few pictures along the
way. In the vineyard of Clos de Bèze is one of the more photographed
landmarks in the northern half of the Côte d'Or. Perhaps the popularity of
Domaine Pierre Damoy's vineyard storage shed is best explained by the need
for a visual distraction among the continuous span of vines. At the same
location, I meet up with a couple from Australia. We had met the day before
in Dijon where they told me the were driving the route southbound in search
of blue sky and sandy beaches, eventually stopping at Nice on the
Mediterranean Sea - Santenay is far enough for me; I don't do well in the
hot sun anyway.
Chambertin, I understand was General Napoleon’s drink of choice when not in
battle; for that, he sabred champagne. The wall along the roadside in front
of this great vineyard is rustic, worn and yet remains a clear marker and
indication of its presence in the field. Articles of clothing are strewn
along the roadside: jeans, sweaters and the occasion pair of shoes. For a
moment I think this might be some symbolic French gesture; for decades the
people of Toronto would touch Timothy Eaton's toe on the bronze statue in
the Eaton Centre for good luck. Does leaving a shirt or socks at the wall of
Chambertin bring good fortune? Not at all, in fact a few weeks before,
literally swarms of harvesters dressed in multiple layers of clothing combed
this land, stripping (no pun intended) the vines of their fruit. During the
day they'd shed a layer or two as the temperature began to climb. But as
they work their way along the rows, they'd forget the clothing they had
peeled off earlier. Amazingly, there is no litter in the form of garbage
whatsoever, just clothing, and a surprising amount of it.
Morey St. Denis is a small village and home of the Grand Cru vineyards of
Clos des Lambrays, Clos St. Denis, and Clos de Tart - why I snicker at the
last is purely the fault of Monte Python's Flying Circus and their tale of
Sir Galahad the Pure and the virgins of castle Anthrax... In 1141 the
vineyard of Clos de Tart became a beacon of light cared for the Cistercian
nuns of Notre Dame de Tart... you get the idea.
In the centre square of Morey is a good bakery and following the trek from
Fixin, a pain au chocolate and bottle of water taste just about perfect as I
lean against the limestone wall that encloses Domaine Louis Remy. I ask
about the wines of Morey-St. Denis and taste several examples. The one that
leaves the greatest impression is the 2004 premier cru les Ruchots from
Domaine Amiot. Its colour is still quite deep and consistent with that of
Gevrey-Chambertin while the aroma and favour profiles now hint at something
slightly more delicate.
In conversation, I learn that on the hill behind Morey St. Denis is a plot
of vines that break from tradition in the Côte de Nuits. Just below the tree
line nearing the top of the steep incline is a plot known as Monts Luisants.
Here Aligoté grows in the surrounding sea of Pinot Noir vineyards. The wine
of this rogue vineyard demonstrates the suppressed potential of the
seemingly second-class grape in the region. AOC law stipulated that Monts
Luisants cannot be sold outside of the region, but when in Burgundy, it is
certainly worth seeking out for a taste of something slightly off the beaten
path.
Beyond Morey St. Denis is Chambolle-Musigny. Here one begins to feel the
calling of Burgundy. By no means are the other villages anti-climatic –
certainly not, but they do not project the ambiance and visual effect in my
opinion. I've also had my share of wine from Chambolle-Musigny so perhaps
familiarity plays a factor in my preference. Originally, the village was
known simply as Chambolle, but like Gevrey 'Chambertin' and Morey
'Saint-Denis', a trend initiated in 1847 allowed some villages to add the
name of
their greatest vineyard as a suffix and hence the many hyphenated names
along the Côte d’Or. Relative to the other villages, Chambolle-Musigny sits
quite high on the hill where construction of the road network required
terraced walls. In some places these stonewalls are over ten feet high.
Baskets of flowers, religious artifacts and symbols adorn the various
buildings and walled properties as you climb the gentle incline toward a
hairpin turn that sends you eastward in the direction of Vougeot.
Chambolle-Musigny is where the Côte d'Or begins to change, both is its style
of wine and direction of landscape. A hill in the escarpment juts out rather
abruptly projecting the vineyards adjacent to the village on a more
northeasterly heading. This change combined with the variation of soil is
what dictates the difference in the wine. By comparison, Chambolle-Musigny
is somewhat delicate, feminine some say, and slightly lighter in both body
and taste than the fuller Gevrey-Chambertin. Slightly floral notes with
bright red fruits such as raspberry and cherry define these wines; dried
cranberry to taste with dusty tannins on the finish – I could drink
Chambolle all day. In fact, some of the best Burgundies that I have tasted
are from this beautiful village and the vineyards that grow on the hills
beneath it. Notable are the wines of Domain Alain Hudelot-Noëllat if you
ever have the opportunity.
The Grand Cru vineyard of Le Musigny is the source of one of the top Pinot
Noir wines in the region, but what make this vineyard unique is that it is
also the only vineyard in the Côte de Nuits to produce a Grand Cru white in
addition to a red. All others Grand Cru white vineyards are found in the
Côte de Beaune which is further south.
I have walked nearly 10km by this point in the day not to mention the
combined distance of trekking through the occasional vineyard. Furthermore,
I don't claim to be in great shape; average perhaps but certain not the
pillar of health that I once was. Let's just say strong-willed I remain, but
my God, do I ever need to sit down!
Beyond the village of Chambolle-Musigny the route des Grands Crus descends
toward what is perhaps the most historically significant area in the region.
Château de Vougeot and its walled vineyard appear beyond the hill and I stop
to marvel at the view. On my left is an ancient stone crucifix. The old
cross stands at the edge of the Premier Cru vineyards of les Charmes and les
Armoureuses [the lovers]. Les Armoureuses is said to be the most picturesque
vineyard in the Côte d'Or and as I overlook the next leg of my journey, I
can find no possible way to dispute that claim. I also have no doubt that
heavenly bodies watch over the old vines that flourish in the vineyards
below. During the time of the Church, the nuns planted this plot and rumour
has it that in more recent times, les Armoureuses became the place where a
young man could bring his girlfriend after hours… Oh la la!
On the horizon is Vosne-Romanée and Nuits Saint George beyond; I will stay
there tomorrow night, but for now, I have a reservation at the base of the
hill in Vougeot.
Vougeot is little more than a main street of average looking buildings and
shops. By far, the most significant landmark here is the historic 14th
century Château which I will visit in the morning. I understand that what
the village lacks is visual appearance it more than makes up for in dinning
delight. Across from the bed and breakfast where I am spending tonight is a
modern restaurant with a good reputation for beef bourguignon.
Entering the restaurant I can't help but notice an open bottle of Grand Cru
Corton sitting on the bar as the waiter escorts me to
my table. A glass of Kir soothes my throbbing leg muscles as I peruse the
menu, but the bottle of Corton remains the focus of not only my attention
but of the couple sitting beside me as well. Strangely, there is no one else
in the dinning room and the light behind the bar revels that only one glass
was poured from the bottle.
Our server explains that the bottle was opened for a table at lunch. The
guest in question turned the wine away, suggesting it was flawed. Hardly
surprising I state, the 2009 vintage is by no means ready to drink. But this
bottle had now sat open all afternoon which in theory should be ample time
to breath for the dinner hour. I negotiated with both the waiter and the
couple beside me. We agreed to split the cost down the middle to enjoy the
four remaining glasses.
I am a firm believer that wine will always taste better if it involves a
good story and the '09 Grand Cru Corton, les Maréschaudes was delicious
alongside beef bourguignon which was cooked to perfection. For dessert, our
server brought mousse au chocolate for the three of us and on the house as a
gesture of gratitude for salvaging the expense of the bottle. After dinner I
staggered back to my room for a hot shower and a well-needed rest. Morning
comes far too early here in France.
Tomorrow I head to Château Clos de Vougeot, then on to the famous vineyards
Vosne-Romanée, and finally to Nuits Saint Georges for dinner in a Michelin
Star restaurant. Join me as the journey continues…
read part 4 - Vougeot to Nuits-Saint-Georges
Tyler Philp is a member of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada Please direct inquires for writing services to: info@tylerphilp.com |
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